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How Much Do You Love Your Home? Enough to Turn Down a Million Dollars?

How Much Do You Love Your Home? Enough to Turn Down a Million Dollars?

Published: May 13, 2014

Do you love your home as much as Edith Macefield, the 84-year-old Seattle woman whose story is remarkably similar to the plotline in the movie “Up”? She turned down a $1 million offer in 2006, then forced developers to build their five-story shopping mall around her little cottage.

Related: More Real-Life “Up” Houses

Do you love your home as much as my friend Anne Robinson who turned down $5 million for her home and 18-acre lot abutting a 1,000-acre wildlife conservation area in suburban Baltimore?

Robinson chased more than one would-be buyer off her property. Once she literally swept a determined developer out of her house using her broom. Just as determined, she held on to her home until her death, eventually leaving it to the county so it could build a nature center there.

I wish I shared in this sentimentality. I can’t because I’m the mother of a high school junior who keeps finding things to like about very expensive private colleges. If you know a developer who’d pay $1 million for my 3-acre lot and 1970s ranch home, give him my number. I could have my family packed up and out of here by this weekend.

It’s not that I don’t love my home. I do. In fact, I love it more than pretty much anyone I know. But what I really love is homeownership itself and all its possibilities. Being a homeowner has surrounded us with neighbors who became true friends and brought my family financial stability.

My husband and I were serial home renovators for years. We’d buy a fixer-upper and live in it for two or three years, remodeling on the weekends. When the home was updated, we’d rent it out and move on to the next project.

We finally stopped because moving homes, and therefore schools, made our daughter unhappy. Now that she’s a high school junior, Hubby and I are discussing where we’ll move when she leaves for college.

She, meanwhile, is going all Anne Robinson on us. She tells us we can’t move because she needs to be able to come home to this house for at least five more years. My argument that home is any place the people you love are living doesn’t fly with her.

I think most people tilt toward Anne on the home-love scale. Selling the home would mean walking away from a place with treasured memories of raising their children, or even of their own childhood.

I actually still own my childhood home, a townhouse, which I inherited. Now, I rent it out. It’s just a few minutes from where we live. Hubby and I might just end up moving there after Emily leaves for school. After all, we loved that house and those neighbors, too.

What about you? How much do you love your home?

 

 

By: Dona DeZube:© Copyright 2015 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

Picture from: New York Times

When’s the Best Time to Plant Trees?

When’s the Best Time to Plant Trees?

Published: August 15, 2014

Plant trees at the right time and they’re more likely to thrive. Here’s when to plant so you get the most value from your landscaping investment.

Trees are big-ticket landscape items that not only cost a lot, but add a lot of value to your home, too — by some estimates a mature tree adds nearly $10,000 in value to your property.

So it’s important to plant trees when they’re most likely to survive.

When’s the Best Time to Plant Trees?

Here’s the short answer: Plant trees when they have enough time to establish roots before they’re exposed to stressors like high heat, low temperatures, or not enough water.

Nicholas Staddon of Monrovia, a plant seller, says late summer/early fall is the best time to plant in most parts of the U.S. — zones 4 to 8.

“During the winter months in many parts of the U.S., roots are still active,” Staddon says. “The tree starts to acclimatize itself to your soil. So in the spring, it bursts forth with leaves and flowers.”

Of course, trees have different needs, and areas have different climates. So, we’re breaking down best planting times according to climates and types of trees.

When to Plant Trees in Cold Climates

The window of opportunity to plant trees in colder climates — zones 1 to 3 — is relatively short. You can’t dig until the ground has warmed, and you’ve got only a few months to plant before the ground freezes again.

Early spring, just as the ground thaws, is the best time plant. Fall can be too late, because trees won’t be able to survive the freezing temperatures that can damage roots and stop moisture from reaching the tree.

When to Plant Trees in Warm Climates

Fall’s the best time to plant in the deep South — zones 9 and 10.

  • After the first frosts, trees become dormant and require less food through young roots.
  • Tree carbohydrates can go directly toward root growth, rather than canopy growth.
  • Mild winters give trees enough growing time to establish root systems that will survive in hot summers.

Make sure you keep young trees well-watered through dry winters.

Types of Trees and When to Plant Them

Bare root trees: These trees are dug from the ground when they are dormant, stored in some moist medium, then shipped bare of soil. Because these roots are naked, plant these trees in spring when they won’t suffer winter injuries. But more important, plant these trees when you get them; the trick is to order correctly so they’ll arrive when they have the best chance to survive.

Container trees: These trees have been grown in pots or burlap wrapping, and have roots covered in soil. They’re not as delicate as bare root trees, so timing is not quite as important. Plant whenever your tree will have a couple of months to establish roots before extreme temperatures — hot or cold — will stress it.

Deciduous trees: Deciduous trees make the decision easy, because they tell you when they’re going dormant by dropping their leaves. Plant in fall, and keep them well-watered even through winter.

Evergreens: Plant these early fall or late spring — just about any time that doesn’t see extreme heat.

Conifers: These cone-bearing trees are particularly susceptible to cold weather because their needles lose moisture all winter even though the tree is sleeping. If you live in a climate where frozen soil prevents water from getting to conifer roots, plant in spring.

Transplants: Transplant trees in spring after the ground has warmed and before the tree sets buds, or in fall after leaves have fallen and before the ground freezes. Younger trees will endure transplanting better than mature trees, which don’t like the shock.

Related: Best Trees To Grow Curb Appeal

 

By: Lisa Kaplan Gordon:© Copyright 2015 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

 

Guide to Hardwood Floor Finishes

Guide to Hardwood Floor Finishes

We’re not going out on a limb when we say hardwood floors are one of the most popular, value-adding features in your home. Homebuyers love ‘em.

But hardwood floors need regular maintenance and refinishing to keep them looking spiffy.

How much wear and tear your floors get determines how often you need to refinish them and what product you use. A household with just two adults might only have to refinish every 10 years; a home with adults, kids, and a dog might need to refinish every three to four years.

There are a lot of finishes out there. Use our at-a-glance guide below to choose the one that’s right for your home. We also help you decide if you want to refinish floors yourself.

Wax

Pros Cons
Easy to apply Not as durable as poly finishes
Low luster Susceptible to stains
Penetrates into wood Needs regular upkeep (refinishing)
Mild odor Must be completely removed before applying a polyurethane finish

Wax is the time-tested, old-fashioned way to refinish wood floors and was routinely used before polyurethanes became available in the 1970s. Both paste and liquid versions are making a comeback with homeowners who want a mellow, low-sheen look, and with those who prefer to use natural products with low VOCs and toxicity.

It’s applied by hand working small areas at a time, which makes it DIY-friendly (but labor-intensive). It’s also easy to touch up a wax finish, so ongoing maintenance is simple.

If you don’t want to darken your wood (which wax tends to do), first apply a base coat of shellac or sanding sealer that penetrates and seals the wood. Two to three coats of wax are recommended.

Especially good for: antique flooring in historic homes

Cost: $10 to $25 per 1 pound covers 400 to 500 square feet

Water-Based Polyurethane

Pros Cons
Fast drying time (2 to 4 hours between coats) More expensive than oil poly
Low odor; low VOCs Less tough than oil poly
Doesn’t yellow like oil polys
Easy to apply; good for DIYers

Polyurethanes are today’s standard floor finish. Water-based varieties used to have a reputation for being eco-friendly (still true) but not as durable as regular polys. However, today’s water-based polys are nearly as tough as their oil-based cousins.

One difference is final color: Water-based polys dry clear; oil-based polys have a slight amber tint.

Water-based polyurethane has very low VOC content and is easy for a DIYer to apply. Three to four coats are recommended. You can use a water-based polyurethane over an oil-based poly as long as the old finish has completely cured (two to three weeks).

Especially good for: eco-conscious DIYers

Cost: $40 to $60 per gallon covers 400 to 500 square feet

Oil-Based Polyurethane

Pros Cons
Less expensive than water-based poly Long drying time (8 to 10 hours between coats)
Extremely tough High odor during application; high VOCs
Easy to apply Gets yellow with age (benefit to some)

Oil-based polys are the mainstay of floor finishing and widely used by professional finishers.

Although they’re tough, long-lasting, and less-expensive than water-based polys, oil-based polys have a higher VOC content and stronger odor during application. A coat takes 8 to 10 hours to dry, so you’ll want to vacate your house until the floor is completely dry — and bring your pets with you. Two to three coats are recommended.

Professional floor refinishers report some problems when using an oil-based poly over a water-based poly. Best advice: Don’t do it.

Especially good for: professionally finished floors at a reasonable price

Cost: $30 to $40 per gallon covers 500 to 600 square feet; it’s $1 to $2 per square foot to have a pro do it.

Acid-Cured (Swedish) Finish

Pros Cons
Extremely hard and durable Difficult to refinish (must use acid-cured finish if used previously)
Fast drying time (2 hours) but up to 60 days to fully cure Volatile odors; high VOCs
More expensive than most finishes Pro-only application

The Cadillac (or Volvo) of floor finishes, acid-cured Swedish finishes are for pro application only. They’re among the toughest of all hardwood flooring finishes, and the most expensive. They’re sometimes called conversion varnish sealers.

Acid-cured finishes have extremely high VOC content; you’ll have to bunk elsewhere for a few days after finishing to give the odors a chance to clear. The finish takes up to 60 days to fully cure, but you can walk on it after three days. Keep furniture off for two weeks, and rugs off for the full 60 days so the fibers don’t stick.

Especially good for: high-end homes with flooring made from exotic woods and floors with elaborate inlay designs

Cost: $3.75 to $5 per square foot professionally applied

Moisture-Cured Urethane

Pros Cons
Extremely durable (one of the hardest) Extremely high VOCs (fumes may last for weeks)
Expensive Pro-only application
Fast drying time allows for multiple coats per day Low humidity extends drying time

This is a durable finish that’s a step up in toughness and longevity from water- and oil-based polyurethane. It’s tricky to apply and isn’t recommended for DIY — it dries very fast, so speed and a deft touch are needed to avoid lap marks.

It has a high VOC content, making a respirator and good ventilation a must during application. Homeowners and pets should vacate the house during application and for up to two weeks afterward.

Especially good for: high-traffic areas and homes with multiple kids and dogs

Cost: $2 to $4 per square foot professionally applied

Penetrating Oil Sealer

Pros Cons
Easy for DIYers to apply Not as durable as a poly finish
Non-toxic ingredients Should be reapplied every 2 to 3 years
Mild odor
Mellow sheen

Oil sealers have been used for centuries to protect and moisture-proof wood. They’re easy to apply, and spot touch-ups are a snap. Because it penetrates the wood, an oil sealer enhances grain patterns and deepens the color of the wood. The finish itself doesn’t scratch, but recoating usually is needed every two to three years as the finish wears down.

The basic ingredient is tung oil, a naturally occurring, low-VOC oil that hardens as it dries. It needs long drying times between coats (24 to 48 hours), so finishing a floor with the recommended three coats can take several days.

Especially good for: historic homes with antique flooring; DIYers

Cost: $60 to $70 per gallon covers 500 square feet

Aluminum Oxide

Pros Cons
Extermely hard and durable (25 years) Only available with prefinished flooring
Difficult to refinish
After 25 years, you might have to replace the flooring

This super-tough finish only comes on prefinished wood planks. You won’t apply it yourself, but you’ll need to know it’s there if you ever decide to refinish it. It requires special refinishing techniques, like sanding with milder grits before using heavier grits. Your floor refinisher can determine if your flooring is covered with an aluminum oxide coating.

Shellac

Pros Cons
Easy to work with Not very durable
Few harmful VOCs Most shellac contains wax — refinishing with modern products isn’t possible
Inexpensive Must be recoated periodically
Easy spot repairs

Polyurethane floor products have surpassed the usefulness of this time-honored wood finish. Houses built before 1970 may have hardwood floors finished with shellac, and you can maintain and refinish them with another coating of shellac. It’s not compatible with more modern finishes, such as polyurethane, so only refinish shellac with wax or another coating of shellac.

Test for shellac by dribbling a few drops of water on an inconspicuous spot. If the finish turns milky white, it’s shellac.

Shellac is a natural product that’s non-toxic and produces few VOCs. It’s not as tough and durable as polyurethanes, and is susceptible to stains from water and other spills. However, it’s easy to repair scratched areas by rubbing out the scratches with denatured alcohol, then reapplying shellac.

Shellac pairs well with wax. Use shellac as a base coat, and finish with two or three coats of hand-rubbed wax.

Especially good for: refinishing antique floors already coated with shellac

Cost: $80 to $90 per gallon covers 300 square feet

Two Options for Refinishing

Does your floor need a touch-up or an overhaul?

1.  For surface scratches and normal wear and tear, lightly sand the finish (called screening) and apply a new topcoat. You’ll want to use the same type of finish product that was on your flooring originally.

2.  For more damaged flooring, you’ll want to completely sand the old finish off down to the bare wood. Once you’ve done that, you can apply any finish.

Related: Ideas for Great-Looking, Low-Maintenance DIY Floors

 

By: John Riha:© Copyright 2015 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

 

Getting the Most Value Out of Your Outdoor Spaces

Getting the Most Value Out of Your Outdoor Spaces

Published: June 6, 2014

Upgrading your outdoor spaces? Here are upgrades that landscape architects rate as most popular.

If you’re thinking of sprucing up your yard, install what you love; but also pick upgrades that will increase your home’s value and, someday, attract buyers.

The new “2014 Residential Landscape Architecture Trends Survey” by the American Society of Landscape Architects clues you in on what outdoor features are trending up:

1.  Outdoor lighting (98.3% of architects rated this as very popular): With today’s solar and LED lights, it’s a low-cost upgrade, too.

2.  Terraces, patios, and decks (97.7%): Adding any of these features is like adding another room to your home for much of the year.

3.  Low-maintenance landscaping (95.4%): Landscaping done right can add 28% to the value of your home and cut its time on the market by 10%-15%.

4.  Fire pits and fireplaces (95.4%): Building your own fire pit is an easy, low-cost DIY project.

5.  Built-in seating (89.6%): Adding built-ins to your deck or patio increases the usability of your outdoor spaces, which is like adding square footage to your home.

Other popular items include:

  • Fencing (88.5%)
  • Native plants (84.5%)
  • Drip-water efficient irrigation (84.5%)
  • Pergolas (82.8%)
  • Water features (81.6%)

Here are some less popular landscape items. So if you’re thinking of putting them in, make sure they’re something you’ll really enjoy:

  • Geothermal-heated pools (27.2%)
  • Outdoor cooling systems (37.2%)
  • Movie/TV theaters (42.3%)
  • Shower/baths (46.8%)
  • Gazebos (48.5%)
  • Turf lawns (54%)

Related:

  • Outdoor Lighting Tips
  • Inspiring Deck Ideas

 

 

By: Lisa Kaplan Gordon:© Copyright 2015 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

Best Money-Saving DIY Projects (and Tips for Doing Them Right)

Best Money-Saving DIY Projects (and Tips for Doing Them Right)

When you factor in return on investment, you’d be nuts not to DIY.

You’re going to save money with DIY home improvement projects. Sure, everybody knows that.

But did you know how much? Cut professionals out of the equation and you can save half the cost of a project — or more. On a minor bathroom refresh, that could be up to $10,000.

What’s more, you get a great return on your investment. Meaning, the financial value you get out of a DIY project is much more than what you put in.

Of course there are projects where pro installation is going to be much faster and safer, and worth the price of a hiring a contractor. Major exterior improvements, such as replacing roofing and siding, are prime candidates.

And granted, there are tasks where a pro is invaluable. Personally, I have years of DIY experience, but I still won’t touch electrical work with a 10-foot insulated pole.

Nevertheless, going DIY is the ultimate money-saving tool. You’ll also get tons of satisfaction and enjoyment from creating a better home environment, and from learning home improvement skills that’ll last a lifetime.

Here’s a rundown of some top money-saving projects, using cost and return-on-investment figures from “Remodeling” magazine’s annual “Cost vs. Value Report.”

But before we get to that, let’s swat aside some concerns. Or go straight to the projects.

What If You Don’t Have the Skills?

Sorry, not buying it. How-to tutorials are everywhere. Check out YouTube for video instructions on everything from taking out a toilet to tiling your shower stall. In addition:

  • Most major manufacturers have tutorials on their websites. If you’re looking to install a particular product, check out the horse’s mouth for videos and PDF instructions.
  • Big box home improvement centers run clinics on installing tile, building decks, paint finishes, and more — free. Spend an hour or so at a clinic to learn direct from professionals.
  • Yes, physical books still exist. Buy new, or head down to your local library for free how-to books you can keep for weeks. (Yes, they still have overdue fines!)

What If You Don’t Have the Time?

That’s the trade-off. Your time (and labor) is going to stand in for cash out of your pocket. If you truly don’t have the time, then DIY probably isn’t for you.

The next best move is to BIY your project — buy-it-yourself. With a BIY project, you do the research, shopping, and purchasing of materials and save the contractor’s markup. You need to work closely with your professional to make sure you agree on what stuff you’ll be buying, and what is still the contractor’s responsibility.

Related: Save 20% When You BIY Instead of DIY

The Best Money-Saving Projects With Great ROI

Deck Addition

A 12-foot-by-16-foot wood deck addition is a straightforward project, especially if you keep the design simple (rectangular) and use concrete piers instead of poured concrete footings (check your local codes). Even a set of simple stairs can be tricky, so take your time with measurements. If you botch your first attempt, know you’re in good company, and try again.

If You Hire If You DIY
Cost $10,048 Cost $1,650
What You Get Back When You Sell* $8,085 What You Get Back When You Sell* $8,085
Return on Investment

80.5%

Return on Investment

490%

*Source: “Remodeling” magazine “Cost vs. Value Report

You can probably build a 12-foot-by-16-foot DIY deck in three to four days over two weekends. If you’re using poured footings instead of precast piers, you’ll need to wait two or three days for the concrete to cure. Having a buddy definitely helps move things along, but might cost you extra for pizza and beer.

Minor Bathroom Facelift

A typical guest bathroom is about 5 feet by 7 feet, so let’s bring that up-to-date by installing a new tub, toilet, ceramic tile floor and shower surround, updating the shower valve, and adding a new vanity, sink, and counter. Spruce it all up with moisture-proof vinyl wallpaper.

You’ll do everything but the plumbing connections, so add $380 for a pro plumber (four hours at $95 per hour).

Installing ceramic tile is one of the more challenging — and rewarding — DIY projects. Study those tutorials first, and get the right tools. Rent an electric tile saw for $50 to $75 per day; but note that you can buy an acceptable tile saw at a home improvement center for less than $100.

If You Hire If You DIY
Cost $16,724 Cost $6,880
What You Get Back When You Sell* $11,707 What You Get Back When You Sell* $11,707
Return on Investment

70%

Return on Investment

170%

*Source: “Remodeling” magazine “Cost vs. Value Report

Plan for six to eight days of work, spread over however long you can stand to be without your bathroom. You’ll need the better part of two days for the tile alone, and a day to let the tile adhesive set.

Entry Door Replacement

No other project gives as much return as a new steel entry replacement door. Not only is it a cost-effective project with one of the highest returns in the Cost vs. Value Report, but you get the added benefit of sprucing up your curb appeal.

Know your door parts (jambs, threshold, stops) before digging in. You’ll be putting in a pre-hung door that includes jambs, so the old stuff has to come out. If you can, preserve the old casing (trim) that goes around the door. Otherwise, plan to buy new casing.

If You Hire If You DIY
Cost $1,230 Cost $250
What You Get Back When You Sell* $1,252 What You Get Back When You Sell* $1,252
Return on Investment

101.8%

Return on Investment

501%

*Source: “Remodeling” magazine “Cost vs. Value Report

This is a good one to have a buddy or spouse lend a hand. It’ll take six to eight hours if it’s your first time. Remember the three-legged mantra of door installation: Plumb, level, square.

Related: Choosing an Exterior Door

Garage Door Replacement

Tired of looking at that big blank billboard every time you pull into your driveway? Change out your old garage door for a spiffy new steel model and the whole neighborhood will thank you. Save some cash by keeping the same motorized opener.

If You Hire If You DIY
Cost $1,595 Cost $850
What You Get Back When You Sell* $1,410 What You Get Back When You Sell* $1,410
Return on Investment

88.4%

Return on Investment

166%

*Source: “Remodeling” magazine “Cost vs. Value Report

A steel garage door comes in four panels that are relatively lightweight but awkward — get a friend to lend a hand and you’ll have this project done in a day.

Vinyl Window Replacement

If you want to replace four or more windows, or a second-story window, then hire the work out. Being up on a ladder with an object as bulky as a window is no place for a non-professional. Pros bring scaffolding, which takes time to set up but ultimately makes the work faster and safer.

Replacing one, two, or maybe three first-story windows is a good DIY job. Anything more and the pros will get the job done with better efficiency in terms of time and hassle.

If You Hire If You DIY
Cost (per window) $1,120 Cost (per window) $250
What You Get Back When You Sell* $816 What You Get Back When You Sell* $799
Return on Investment

72.9%

Return on Investment

320%

*Source: “Remodeling” magazine “Cost vs. Value Report

If you’ve measured your rough opening correctly and bought the right window, then one window should take you three to four hours. You’ll get faster with subsequent windows.

 

 

By: John Riha:© Copyright 2015 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

 

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