HVAC Maintenance Checklist

HVAC Maintenance Checklist

Here’s an easy, doable preventative maintenance checklist to keep your HVAC in top shape.

It’s a good idea to hire a HVAC company to inspect and do maintenance on your system every fall and spring. They’ll do things like inspect and clean the wiring and mechanisms of the unit, which is bit more challenging for the average homeowner.

But you can prolong the life and increase the efficiency of your system if you follow this simple maintenance plan:

HVAC checklist for homeowners

Some things you should do immediately; other tasks only need to be done seasonally or once a year. Here are the steps to a healthy HVAC system:

  • Buy a better filter if you haven’t already. The new high-efficiency pleated filters have an electrostatic charge that works like a magnet to grab the tiniest particles — even those that carry bacteria.
  • Replace the filter at least every 90 days. But check it monthly. If it looks dark and clogged, go ahead and change it. If you have pets, you’ll probably need to change every month.
  • Check to make sure there’s at least two feet of clearance around outdoor air conditioning units and heat pumps.
  • Weekly during spring, summer, and fall remove debris such as leaves, pollen, and twigs from top and sides of outdoor air-conditioning units and heat pumps. Don’t allow the lawn mower to discharge grass clippings onto the unit.
  • Monthly, inspect insulation on refrigerant lines leading into house. Replace if missing or damaged.
  • Annually, ensure that outdoor air-conditioning units and heat pumps are on firm and level ground or pads.
  • Annually, pour a cup of bleach mixed with water down the air-conditioner condensate drain to prevent buildup of mold and algae, which can cause a clog.
  • In summer, shut off the water supply to the furnace humidifier. In fall (or when you anticipate turning on the heat), replace the humidifier wick filter, set the humidistat to between 35% and 40% relative humidity, and turn on the water supply.
  • Never close more than 20% of a home’s registers to avoid placing unnecessary strain on the HVAC system.
  • Annually, replace the battery in your home’s carbon monoxide detector.

Related:

  • How to Inspect Your HVAC
  • How to Use a Programmable Thermostat for Real Savings
  • The 5 Most Effective Ways to Take Back Your Energy Bills

 

 

By: Douglas Trattner © Copyright 2015 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

 

How to Prevent Water Damage

How to Prevent Water Damage

Preventing water damage is a whole lot cheaper than paying for repairs. Here are three easy prevention tips.

Water damage is the No. 1 culprit that weakens your home’s foundation and the very core that holds your house together.

You’ve heard about core strength for your body. Well, water damage hits at the core strength of your house, eventually causing serious structural damage. Damp wood invites termites and carpenter ants; plus, it causes mold and mildew.

Here are three easy things to do to that will give you piece of mind the next time heavy storms hit.

#1. Ensure Good Drainage

Why it matters: Poor drainage weakens your foundation, causing cracks, uneven settling, and pathways for water to enter your home.

How to do it:

  • Clean your gutters routinely. A clogged gutter will send cascades of water down the side of your house, damaging your siding and foundation.
  • Ensure your downspouts direct water 5 to 10 feet away from your house.
  • Make sure your yard is sloped at least 6 inches over a 10-foot span away from your foundation. That slope keeps water from getting down right next to your foundation, where it could cause walls to lean, crack the masonry, and create leaks. (For crawl spaces, keeping water away makes sure excess water doesn’t pool underneath your floor, making for damp conditions that encourage mold, rot, and insects.)
  • But don’t let the soil get too dry, either. Long dry spells let the soil around your house dry out and shrink. A big rain may make the soil expand, putting pressure on your foundation walls. In a drought, run a soaker hose at least 6 inches from the foundation and 3 inches under the soil to keep the soil from contracting and expanding.

Maintenance cost: Very little. Cleaning gutters can be a no-cost DIY job, or you can hire a pro for $50 to $250, depending on the size and height of your home. To get the soil slope you need, you might have to buy some additional topsoil.

Worst case if you put it off: Your foundation could settle, cracking your basement walls. The cost to stabilize, repair, and seal deteriorated foundation walls is a whopping $15,000 to $40,000.

Related:

  • 7 Signs You Have a Foundation Problem
  • How Foundation Repairs Work

#2. Test Your Sump Pump Regularly

Why it matters: Sump pumps come to life during storms. That’s not when you want to realize yours isn’t working properly. You should check it at least once a year, and ideally perform several checks during heavy storm seasons.

How to test your sump pump:

1. Slowly fill the sump pump pit with water. Watch for the “float” (similar to the float in your toilet) to rise, which should turn on the pump. Then watch to make sure the water level falls.

2. Test your backup pump the same way, but unplug the main pump first.

3. If you don’t have a backup pump — or a generator — and are on municipal water, get one that runs on water pressure. If you’re on well water, your only option is the battery kind.

Maintenance cost: Testing is free; a water-powered backup sump pump, including installation, costs $150 to $350; a new battery for a battery-operated sump starts around $200.

Worst case if you put it off: Your basement could flood, ruining everything in it, including drywall and carpeting. (Did you know your regular insurance doesn’t cover flooding?) Plus you run the risk of mold and mildew — which can also be a very expensive problem.

Related: Replacing Your Sump Pump

#3. Check for Water Leaks and Fix Them

 


Why it matters:
 Persistent leaks lead to mold and mildew, rot, and even termites and carpenter ants (they like chewing soggy wood, since it’s soft). Yet if you fix a leak soon after it starts, there may be no long-term damage at all.

How to check for leaks:

  • Check for dark spots under pipes inside sink cabinets, stains on ceilings, toilets that rock, and of course drips.
  • At least once a year, inspect your roof. Repair missing, loose, and damaged shingles. Repair any cracked caulking and check for leaks around flashing.

Related:

  • How to Inspect Your Roof
  • Tips for Preventing Leaks

Maintenance cost: Negligible for a simple fix, such as a new washer. A visit from a plumber might set you back $250; a roof repair, a few hundred dollars to $1,000.

Worst case if you put it off: Drips ruin the cabinet under the kitchen sink, and run down into the floor sheathing and joists underneath, so you need a structural repair, plus new cabinets and new kitchen flooring. Or the roof rots, so you need a new roof and repairs to rooms directly beneath.

If you do these three things and still have persistent water problems, such as water getting into your basement or an area of your yard keeps washing out, the solution is a bit more complicated in the form of a French drain. Learn about French drains here.

 

 

 

By: Lara Edge © Copyright 2015 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

The Right Disaster Insurance for Your Region

The Right Disaster Insurance for Your Region

Published: June 20, 2013

The region in which you live dictates what kind of disaster insurance you might need to protect your home from Mother Nature’s wrath.

Real estate comes down to location, location, location. Same goes for disasters. Where you live offers clues to how susceptible your home is to damage by floods, tornadoes, hurricanes, earthquakes, wildfires, and other calamities.

These regional risks also indicate whether you need to consider purchasing supplemental disaster insurance to cover claims that wouldn’t be included under a typical homeowners policy. Determining if you live in a disaster-prone region and reviewing your existing coverage are good first steps.

The next step is to create a home inventory, ideally with a digital camera or camcorder. Store copies of those files far away from your house or online at a backup storage site. That way, even if your home and computer are damaged, you’ll have proof of what was lost. Remember, too, to devise a family evacuation plan and assemble an emergency kit with food, water, and supplies.

Floods

Homes in low-lying areas, near bodies of water, or downstream from dams are particularly vulnerable. Saturated carpet, insulation, and drywall can promote mold growth. Since flood damage is often excluded from homeowners policies, it’s important to weigh the risk to your property.

At-risk regions: All

Coverage: Find out if your homeowners policy differentiates between “falling water” flooding — heavy rain, which may be covered — and “ground water” flooding, which usually isn’t. Most insurers sell flood insurance, but it may be more difficult to get in high-risk regions. The National Flood Insurance Program is open to anyone. Most experts recommend insuring your home and its contents at the replacement value.

Cost: The average flood insurance policy costs $600 per year, while the average flood claim is $30,000, according to the NFIP.

Hurricanes

Damage from hurricanes can result from heavy winds, rain, hail, and tidal or groundwater surge. Insurers in areas that have been battered by storms — especially coastal regions in the Southeast — are more skittish than those in other areas.

At-risk regions: Primarily East Coast and Gulf Coast

Coverage: In low-risk areas, your homeowners policy may cover any damage not done by rising water or groundwater surge. In high-risk areas, you may need to purchase additional coverage or participate in a state-run pool for hurricane and windstorm coverage. Your state’s insurance commissioner can provide details. Be sure to check whether additional hurricane coverage includes flooding from tidal or groundwater surge, or if you need a separate flood policy.

Cost: David Miller, CEO of Brightway Insurance in Jacksonville, Fla., says he has seen comprehensive windstorm and flood policies range from $300 for low-risk areas to up to $20,000 for high-end homes in the riskiest communities.

Earthquakes

Although earthquakes are associated with California, fault lines run through virtually every region. The U.S. Geological Survey tracks the latest quakes and keeps maps that show existing fault lines. Even minor earthquakes can damage belongings and leave houses structurally unsound.

At-risk regions: West Coast, especially California, and parts of Midwest

Coverage: Homeowners policies typically exclude earthquake damage. In California, supplemental coverage is available through the California Earthquake Authority. In other states, it’s usually available from private carriers. Your state’s insurance commissioner will have information on options.

Cost: A typical earthquake policy runs between $1.50 and $3 per $1,000 of coverage per year, with a deductible of 5% to 15% of the home’s value. If a home is insured for $200,000, the deductible would be $10,000 to $30,000, possibly with separate deductibles for the structure and the contents.

Tornadoes

Winds can reach up to 300 miles per hour and spiral into violent funnels. Although there’s not much that can be done to guard against tornadoes, keeping a home’s exterior in good repair can help mitigate damage from high winds.

At-risk regions: Eastern U.S, especially Central Plains

Coverage: Tornadoes are typically covered under your homeowners insurance. However, it’s a good idea to read over your policy or call your agent for confirmation.

Cost: Homeowners insurance premiums in recent years have averaged about $800 annually.

Wildfires

Approximately 68,000 wildfires burned more than 9.3 million acres in 2012. Every state but Hawaii was hit. Areas that are experiencing drought are most at risk. Damage to homes can result from flames themselves, but also from smoke, soot, and even the water used to fight the fires.

At-risk regions: All

Coverage: Fire is typically covered by a standard homeowners policy. Be sure to verify exactly what your coverage entails. Is cleanup included? How about full replacement value?

Cost: In recent years homeowners policies have averaged as low as $477 (Idaho) to as high as $1,409 (Texas).

Mine subsidence

Homes built over or near abandoned mines are at risk of structural damage if the ground shifts or sinkholes develop. Mine subsidence can also affect the water supply and utilities in the area.

At-risk regions: Primarily Eastern U.S.

Coverage: Mine subsidence isn’t typically covered by homeowners insurance. Coverage is usually available through state-sponsored pools, so check with your state’s insurance commissioner.

Cost: Premiums vary. In Pennsylvania, $130,000 in residential coverage is about $7 per month. In Illinois, it costs less than $95 per year to insure a house worth up to $250,000.

 

By: Gwen Moran © Copyright 2015 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

 

Screen in Your Deck for a Bug-Free Summer

Screen in Your Deck for a Bug-Free Summer

You can make the most of your backyard by converting your deck to a screened-in porch, which turns mosquitoes, heat waves, and downpours into non-events. Plus, the thwack of a screen door is still the soundtrack for summer.

Converting won’t be easy — unless you’ve got top-notch handyman skills, you’ll have to hire a pro. And it won’t be cheap — converting a 14-foot-by-14-foot deck into a porch will cost $10,000-$12,000.

But it’s worth the time and money. Screened-in porches add value to your home. Reginald Carter, a Jacksonville, Fla., appraiser, says the return on investment is about 70% if you stay in your home for at least five years after installing the porch.

Screened-in porches also can help you sell your home faster. In Virginia, for instance, about 70% of buyers can’t live without screened-in porches, says Elaine VonCannon, a REALTOR® from Williamsburg, Va.

“It works for everybody who likes to sit outside,” says VonCannon.

Related: Pictures of Screened-In Porches
Can Your Deck Become a Screened-In Porch?

Maybe.

The biggest structural difference between a deck and porch is the weight of the load that rests on its foundation, joists, and beams, says David Berryhill, owner of Archadeck of Chicagoland.

Most decks are relatively lightweight: A 14-foot-by-14-foot deck can rest safely if it’s attached to the house and supported by three concrete piers. A porch, however, is much heavier because it has a roof.

To prepare your current deck for the additional load, you’ll have to:

  • Possibly add more posts and foundation piers ($500-$5,000). Check with your local building code authority. In some municipalities, building codes require a solid concrete foundation, which could cost up to $10,000 (and would eliminate most decks from consideration as porches).
  • Beef up joists and beams to support the additional roof load.
  • Remove railings if you want a floor-to-ceiling screened porch, which gives you an unobstructed view.
  • Bug-proof deck floors. To keep tiny critters from climbing into your new porch from below, attach a fine mesh screen or landscape paper to the underside of the floor. Or, replace the current floor with tongue-and-groove boards that fit so tightly bugs can’t climb through.

Pick the Right Roof

The right roof makes the difference between a porch that looks like it was always part of your house, and one that looks like an afterthought with no architectural rhyme or reason. Some tips:

  • Select a roof shape that’s compatible with your house’s roofline. A hip roof is strongest, a shed roof the most economical, and a gable roof lets in the most light.
  • In some cases, the new roof can be built over the existing one, but you’ll still have to flash the valley and rearrange the gutters and downspouts.
  • Use the same roofing material as your main roof.

The Skinny on Screens

Know thyself before you select screening for your porch. Do you have rambunctious pets that make strength a top priority? Is there a beautiful view you don’t want blocked by an obtrusive screen?

Here are some options:

Fiberglass (17 cent/sq. ft.): An inexpensive, lightweight screening in black or charcoal. It’s easy to install but tears easily, too, and has a tendency to stretch and look floppy.

Aluminum (26 cents/sq. ft.): Stronger and more durable than fiberglass, and the least visible. On the downside, aluminum dents easily and can oxidize.

Vinyl-Coated Polyester (60 cents-$1.53 /sq. ft.): Used to make pet screens that are super strong — down, Rex, down — and ones that dissipate heat in hot climates.

Bronze ($1.10/sq. ft.): Strong, doesn’t easily oxidize in salt air along coasts, and develops a patina with age.

Monel (alloy of copper and nickel) and stainless steel ($2.25-$5/sq. ft.): Strong, and tear-, rust-, and corrosion-resistant.

Related: Repair a Torn Screen

Screened-In Porch Tips

  • Pre-made screen panels are easier to install and repair than rolls of screening, but you pay the price of $50-$75/running ft.
  • When planning your porch project, check local building codes for setback regulations and building specifications.
  • Don’t forget to add electrical outlets to your porch for lamps, ceiling fans, and phone chargers.
  • Porches block light and can make the inside of your house seem dark. You can cure that by installing a skylight in the room adjacent to the porch.
  • Building codes may require that you have a 3-foot-by-3-foot concrete landing outside the egress door to your porch.

 

By: Lisa Kaplan Gordon © Copyright 2015 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

 

Ikea Studied Americans at Home. Here’s What It Found.

Ikea Studied Americans at Home. Here’s What It Found.

Published: April 15, 2014

Ikea was curious about what Americans want from their homes. Surprisingly, it has nothing to do with expensive upgrades.

The Swedish retailer’s first annual “US Life at Home Report” uncovered that, above all else, 95% of Americans consider comfort a top home feature. We’re not talking about cushy furniture or other features that makes life at home physically more comfortable. It’s an emotional thing. Ikea found that American consumers want their homes to have a feel-good environment so they can let their hair down and connect with loved ones.

Here are more nuggets from the report:

We aren’t show-offs. In fact, we’re modest (!). Ikea says, “… home in the U.S. is not so much about status or wealth. Or keeping up with the Joneses.” Only a mere 1% wants their abodes to reflect their success.

We love living rooms. Maybe that’s why open kitchens are hot. Homeowners don’t want to be separated from their favorite room. Of those polled, 65% agree it’s the most popular spot in the house.

We feel cramped in the kitchen. We’re starved for kitchen storage. We also want more elbow room and counter space.

We use technology in the kitchen. But this has nothing to do with futuristic home gadgets. A total of 27% listen to music, use the computer, or watch TV while cooking or hanging out.

We stash stuff under our beds. The bedroom is another room that leaves us feeling squeezed for space. Fifty-four percent of Americans use the space under their beds for storage.

We want to save energy. If the opportunity popped up, 98% of us would buy an Energy Star-rated appliance. We’re also starting to shift away from inefficient incandescent light bulbs.  Forty-three percent of us have transitioned to LED bulbs and have at least one in the house.

We’re getting greener. A whopping 71% of Americans recycle at home. Twenty-eight percent want to generate their own solar power.

The panel for this study consisted of 4,000 U.S. consumers:

  • A combination of male and female heads of household between the ages of 25-54
  • Household income of at least $35,000

 

 

By: Deirdre Sullivan © Copyright 2015 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

 

What’s the No. 1 Thing People Want in Their Bathroom?

What’s the No. 1 Thing People Want in Their Bathroom?

Bathroom exhaust fans make air smell (much!) sweeter, paint last longer, and mold grow slower — or not at all. Learn how to do a bathroom exhaust fan installation.

Return to the Best Bath Ideas for Love & Money

A bathroom exhaust fan is an inexpensive upgrade that packs a value punch. The shoe-box-size fan clears obnoxious bathroom odors (priceless!) and removes moisture, which protects your home and health, and reduces maintenance costs.

And, it turns out, everyone wants one. Exhaust fans are the No. 1 feature homebuyers want in a bathroom, says a National Association of Home Builders report. Ninety percent ranked exhaust fan as No. 1, with linen closet second, and a separate tub and shower as third. Who knew?

Still, many homes don’t have a bathroom fan. Although the fans are required by building code in many places, older homes — pre-1960s — didn’t routinely install them. And homeowners today may be reluctant to retrofit bathrooms with an appliance that requires venting to snake through attics, joists, soffits, and ultimately punctures an exterior wall or roof.

We feel your fear, and we’re here to help. Below, we break down everything you need to know about selecting and installing a bathroom exhaust fan.

What Does a Bathroom Exhaust Fan Do?

A bathroom exhaust fan is a small, ceiling- or wall-mounted fan that pulls air from the bathroom, sends it through venting (4-inch is preferable), and deposits it outside.

This helps you and your home by:

  • Improving indoor air quality, especially by removing bathroom smells.
  • Removing shower and bath humidity.
  • De-fogging mirrors.
  • Thwarting mold growth.
  • Preventing door and window warp.
  • Slowing fixture rust.
  • Retarding paint blister and wallpaper peel.

Related: How To Kill and Prevent Household Mold

How Are Fans Rated?

Exhaust fans are measured by two factors found on the fan’s box:

  • CFM (cubic feet per minute): Indicates the strength of the fan’s draw. CFM’s can range from 50 to 1,000-plus, although most bathrooms typically require fans with less than 200 CFM.
  • Sone: Measures of the sound the fan makes, typically from 0.5 (almost silent) to 4.0 (sounds like a normal television) — loud for a fan, but it does provide privacy against toilet sounds, especially nice for powder rooms often located near public areas of your home.

Most people choose a 1- or 2-sone fan — quiet enough keep your teeth from rattling, but not so quiet that you’ll forget it’s on.

CFM and sone are related, because stronger fans — with higher CFMs — usually create more noise; quieter fans — lower sone — often can’t adequately clear air from bigger areas.

The important thing is to pick a fan that’s right for your space, ears, and budget.

Sizing Your Fan

The Home Ventilating Institute, which tests and certifies manufacture claims, suggests that homeowners follow these formulas when sizing a fan:

For bathrooms less than 100 sq. ft.
: Calculate your bathroom’s square footage (length x width), and pick a fan with at least that number of CFMs. For example: If your bathroom is 6 feet by 8 feet, you should buy a fan that’s at least 48 CFM. A 50-CFM model comes closest and is the minimum size suggested for small bathrooms.

Size a fan for a ginormous bathroom: If your bathroom is bigger than 100 sq. ft., forget about the square footage figure; instead assign a CFM capacity for each fixture:

  • 50 CFM — toilet.
  • 50 CFM —  bathtub.
  • 100 CFM — jetted whirlpool tub.
  • 50 CFM — shower.

If you have a completely tricked-out bathroom, you may need at least 200 CFM of draw, which you can accomplish with several 50-CFM fans (one fan should be in separate toilet enclosure), or one big, 200-CFM fan.

How To Install Your Fan

Bathroom fan installation isn’t brain surgery — collect air here; exhaust air out there. But it’s not for beginners either, because the project includes removing drywall, perhaps drilling through joists, certainly busting through an exterior wall or roof.

We suggest hiring an HVAC pro, who will charge $150-$700.

If you decide to install a fan yourself, here are some decisions you’ll have to make:

Location: If you have a separate WC, put a small fan there. If your toilet is part of the bathroom, locate the fan between the toilet and tub/shower.

Venting: Exhaust flows through venting attached to the fan and out an exterior wall or roof. Never vent smelly, damp air into an attic or crawl space, which will warp rafters and promote mold growth.

The idea is to run venting the shortest, straightest path from the bathroom to outside. Every extra foot and bend the venting makes increases friction and decreases air draw and fan efficiency.

Appropriate venting runs up into your attic, then along or through floor joists until it reaches the eaves. From there, it can be exhausted out a soffit.

In some instances it may be more practical (and less expensive) to run the vent directly out a wall, or through a vent stack in your roof.

Door clearance: During installation, make sure your bathroom door has at least ¾-inch clearance from the floor, so “makeup air” can easily replace the sucked-out air, putting less stress on the fan.

Related: A Replacement Fan That’s Easy to Install

Fan Options

Bathroom exhaust fans come in custom styles and colors, but most of us would rather spend our decor budget elsewhere and will choose an off-the-rack fan with one or more of the following options:

Fan only: If you’re retrofitting a small bathroom that already has a ceiling fixture, select a basic fan, 50-70 CFM. Cost: $15-$50.

Fan-and-light combo: Good for small bathrooms or WCs. Choose a combo with enough wattage to sufficiently light the area, typically upwards of 60 watts. Cost: $30-$150.

Deluxe combo: All the bells and whistles — fan, light, heater, nightlight, timer (necessary for super-quiet fans you won’t remember are on), humidistat (automatically turns on fan when air moisture rises). Cost: $150-$600.

 

By: Lisa Kaplan Gordon © Copyright 2015 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

 

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