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9 Surprising Things That Add Value to Your House

9 Surprising Things That Add Value to Your House

by | Mar 10, 2015 | Homeownership, renovations

Published: December 3, 2013

A home’s value is dependent on many things. Here are nine factors you might not have thought about.

What do surf breaks, Walmarts, and public transportation have in common? Being near any of them can add thousands to your home’s value.

At least that’s what various university researchers have found based on their evaluation of variables that could be influencing home prices. Their conclusions might surprise you. Here’s what they found:

1. Surf Breaks

Being within a mile of a surf break (a spot where surf-able waves happen) adds about $106,000 to a home’s value, according to surfonomics experts at the Monterey Institute of International Studies.

Reality check: Mother Nature makes surf breaks, so it’s not like you could build your own DIY break to boost your home’s value.

2. Parks and Open Spaces

A desirable public park or other recreational open space boosts the property value of nearby homes by 8%-20%.

One study looked at 16,400 home sales within 1,500 feet of 193 public parks in Portland, Ore., and found these boosts to home values:

  • Natural areas: $10,648
  • Golf courses: $8,849
  • Specialty parks: $5,657
  • Urban parks: $1,214

Reality check: A park that’s not maintained and overcrowded can drag down nearby home values.

3. Living Near a Walmart

Along with making it easier to run out for a gallon of milk at midnight, researchers at the University of Chicago concluded that living within a mile of a Walmart store could raise your home’s value by 1%-2%, and living within half a mile could boost your property value by an additional 1%.

For an average-size home, that’s an uptick of $4,000-$7,000.

Realty check: What you gain in home value, you may end up spending at Walmart.

4. Solar Photovoltaic Systems

California homes with solar photovoltaic (PV) systems sell for a $17,000 premium over homes without solar systems, according to research from the U.S. Department of Energy’s Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory.

Reality check: Although costs for residential solar power systems are falling, they’re still rather pricey at $15,000-$40,000, depending on the size of your house.

Related: Tax Credits for Installing Solar Panels

5. Walkability

Being able to stroll to schools, parks, stores, and restaurants will raise your property value anywhere from $4,000-$34,000, says a 2009 study from CEOs for Cities.

Reality check: The biggest boost in walkability values occurred in large, dense cities.

Related: Boost Your Neighborhood’s Walkability

6. Accessory Dwelling Units

Whether it’s a granny flat, an in-law apartment, or a carriage house, having a separate unit can increase your home’s value by 25%-34%, according to a study of 14 properties with accessory dwelling units in Portland, Ore. You can also get a steady stream of income from a second unit.

Reality check: Local governments often ban accessory dwelling units, so check zoning laws, building codes, and homeowners association rules before you add a unit.

7. Professional Sports Arenas

A new pro sports stadium can raise property values in a 2.5-mile radius by an average of $2,214. The closer you are to the new facility, the larger the increase in home value. Researchers from the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign and the University of Alberta examined house sales in Columbus, Ohio, before and after the city added two sports stadiums.

Reality check: If a stadium is proposed, home values can decline a bit until the project is complete. And if you live really close to a stadium, you may encounter traffic and parking issues.

8. Community Gardens

Planting a community garden raises the value of homes within a 1,000-foot radius by 9.4% within five years, according to research by the Office of the Comptroller of the Currency and New York University School of Law.

The impact increases over time, and high-quality community gardens have the greatest positive influence. Poor neighborhoods saw the biggest gains in home values.

Reality check: Gardens on privately owned land and in higher-income neighborhoods don’t have the same beneficial influence.

9. Trees

No real surprise here — whether trees are in your yard or just on your street, they’re a valuable asset you should be aware of. Here’s a gauge of how much trees are worth to your home value according to a University of Washington research survey:

  • Mature trees anywhere in your yard: 2%.
  • Mature trees on your street: 3%.
  • Trees in your front yard: 3%-5%.
  • Mature trees in high income neighborhoods: 10%-15%.

Reality check: Trees usually mean work — raking leaves, trimming branches, and keeping roots out of sewer lines.

 

 

By: Dona DeZube:Copyright 2015 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®
Go Tub-Less: Dump Your Tub for a Dreamy Shower

Go Tub-Less: Dump Your Tub for a Dreamy Shower

by | Feb 26, 2015 | renovations

Changing your bathtub to a shower is trending your house in the right direction. Here’s how to plan for a smooth transition.

If you’re thinking of converting your bathtub to a shower, you’re in good company. The American Institute of Architects says that the tub-less bathroom is growing in popularity.

Its annual Home Design Trends Survey found that more than 60% of homeowners preferred a stall shower without a tub in 2013. Compare that to 49% in 2012, the first year they specifically surveyed about tub-less bathrooms.

However, there’s a caveat: Even if you only use your tub to wash the mini-blinds, most real estate agents are adamant about having at least one bathtub in your house to preserve marketability.

A recent Houzz poll agrees, with 58% of respondents claiming, “you’ll never sell that house without a tub.”

The conclusion? Go ahead and convert your old tub or tub/shower combo into a cool, walk-in shower, as long as one other bathroom in your house has a tub for tasks such as bathing small children.

Do You Need to Relocate Your Shower?

If you’re planning a simple conversion (not a full bathroom makeover), then your project is straightforward.

If your old tub is in an alcove, you can remove it and be left with a space that’s about 30-34 inches deep and 5 feet wide — a good space for a shower. With minor modifications, your water supply and drain lines will already be in place, saving you money on plumbing costs.

If you have a free-standing tub, a bit more planning may be involved. Many free-standing tubs are positioned under or near windows — and you’ll want to avoid windows in your new shower enclosure.

That means putting your shower in a different location. But you’ll want to have it as close as possible to the existing water supply and drain lines to keep plumbing costs low. Moving plumbing to a new location can add hundreds of dollars to your project.

Will Your Dream Shower Fit?

Most building codes say the floor of a shower stall should be at least 30-by-30 inches. A 36-by-36-inch-wide stall is recommended by the National Kitchen and Bath Association (NKBA). If you’re building to the NKBA standards, an existing tub alcove probably needs modification — such as adding short sections of wall — to make the finished shower space 36 inches deep.

Related: A DIYer Regrets Not Putting More Space in Her Shower

Other key measurements:

  • Finished ceiling height: At least 80 inches.
  • Distance from side of toilet to shower wall: 15 inches minimum measured from the center of the toilet to the wall; 18 inches is recommended.
  • Distance from front of toilet to shower wall (or any wall): 21 inches minimum measured from the front of the toilet bowl to the wall; 30 inches is recommended.
  • Shower door swing: Should clear all obstructions, especially the toilet and vanity cabinet. Sliding glass doors or shower curtains can help solve door swing problems.

Related: Don’t Make These Common Remodeling Mistakes

Tear-Out Tips

Removing your old tub might not be simple. If it’s cast-iron, you’ll need some muscle to get it out of way. If it’s in good condition, you could sell it online or donate it to a ReStore outlet. Intact tile and any fixtures also can be donated or sold to stores that sellsalvaged building materials.

During tear-out, you should:

  • Evaluate the condition of existing pipes and replace if necessary.
  • Check framing and subfloor for mold, mildew, and rot, and repair as needed.
  • Make sure your shower valve is in good condition — now is the time to upgrade to a single-handle, pressure-balancing valve that controls temps and volume ($100-$160).

The Shower Floor: Curbs or Curbless?

The floor of your shower (aka the shower pan) has a lot to say about the style and cost of your conversion. You have a choice of two basic types of pan: one corrals water with curbs that you step over as you enter; the other is curbless.

Shower pans with curbs form a complete enclosure to contain water spray and channel it to a drain. The floor of the shower pan has the proper pitch to drain water. Showers with curbs are usually easier — and cheaper — to install than curbless installations.

Curbless shower stalls (aka barrier-free showers) are very au courant but trickier to make — the drainage slope of the floor has to be built below the level of the surrounding flooring surface. That means either raising the level of the surrounding floor, or lowering the shower pan.

If you raise the bathroom floor, it’ll be higher than any other floor that it meets, such as the floor of your master bedroom. You’ll need a transition threshold, which can be awkward and defeats the advantage of curbless shower if you’re wanting to be able to roll in a wheelchair.

What are the Options?

Shower stall kits are low-cost options. They’re typically made of acrylic or fiberglass, and include pre-made sides, a skid-proof floor pan with curbs and a drain hole, and a hinged glass door. They’re made to fit into corners and old bathtub alcoves.

The seamless, individual pieces make kit installation fast and relatively easy. The shower pan has curbs to contain water and a built-in slope for drainage. Kits are made in various sizes to fit all sorts of configurations, and some include extras such as built-in seats and shelves for bath products.

You can also find curbless kits, but the requirements are the same — you’ll either have to raise the level of the bathroom floor, or lower the floor of the kit for a seamless transition.

Tiled showers with curbs are built on site. The curbs typically are made with flat 2-by-4s stacked on top of each other and finished with ceramic tile. Either a solid or glass wall sits atop the curbs.

Shower pans for use with tile are one-piece acrylic or fiberglass, or custom-made from poured mortar. The mortar is sloped by hand toward the drain, then covered with a waterproof rubber or vinyl membrane. Another layer of mortar — then tile — completes the job.

Curbless showers use specially-made pans designed to fit flush with the surrounding subfloor so that tile can be laid continuously over both the shower and bathroom floor.

If your floor is slab, you’ll have to remove a section of the slab to make room for the pan. That’s a noisy, messy job, but a concrete contractor should be able to do the work in 2-3 hours.

If not, an alternative is to cut down the tops of the floor joists so that you can install a shower pan slightly below the level of your existing flooring. That way, the tile of your new shower will be flush with your existing flooring and you’ll have a continuous, seamless floor. However, altering joists requires approval from your local building authority. You might be required to beef up supports before removing any wood.

What’s the Cost?

Shower stall kits with acrylic or fiberglass sides and a hinged door are $200-$2,000; curbless one-piece shower enclosures are $2,000-$4,000. A competent DIYer can install a kit in a weekend.

A professionally installed, tiled shower enclosure is $1,000-$3,500 depending on complexity, size, and the type of tile and fixtures you choose. Add another $500-$1,000 for tear-out, new plumbing pipes, fixtures, and any custom carpentry.

In Closing, Some Fun Shower Facts:

  • 42% of Americans pee in the shower.
  • 52% sing in the shower (the most-sung tune: “Singin’ In The Rain”).
  • 53% prefer to shower in the morning; 29% shower in the evening.
  • 7% claim they never shower or take a bath — ever.

Source: 2004 American Standard study done to promote its VertiSpa line

 

By: John Riha:© Copyright 2015 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

 

The Best Home Maintenance Tool is Right at Your Fingertips

The Best Home Maintenance Tool is Right at Your Fingertips

by | Feb 17, 2015 | Homeownership, renovations

Published: April 7, 2014

We’ll show you how to supercharge your smartphone’s organizational power to manage home projects with less stress and fewer apps.

With the help of a few common digital tools, you can transform your device into a household control center that simplifies home upkeep.

Boost Your Photographic Memory

Here are better uses for your smartphone camera than selfies.

1.  Take the guesswork out of repair projects.

  • Remember how to put items back together by taking pictures before you take things apart.
  • Need to pick up a few new parts? Take photos of the old components to help you pick the right replacement parts at the store.
  • For repair projects that require a pro, share a picture with your contractor before he gets to the job, so he has a head start and the right tools.

2.  Create photo albums. Use this basic smartphone function to arrange pictures into organized collections for easy reference. Here’s what you can document:

  • Your home’s infrastructure. Take pictures of your home’s wiring, plumbing, and insulation when walls are exposed during renovations and repairs so you’ll know where they are later.
  • Your home’s inventory. Take pictures of your possessions for insurance purposes.
  • Your lighting preferences. Remember the best bulb for each fixture with pictures.
  • Your circuit breakers. Use your camera to document what’s connected to each two-pole (240 volts) and single-pole (120 volt) breaker.
  • All your paint colors. Photograph paint cans and swatches so you remember each color’s name and brand. You can do the same for flooring, tile, and wallpaper.
  • Your home improvements. Build up some bragging rights: Take before, during, and after photos.

Put Free Cloud Storage to Use

Dropbox, Evernote, and Google Drive offer free data storage and will automatically sync across all your devices. Each offers a simple, clean, and efficient way to manage home upkeep. We breakdown the best uses for each app.

Dropbox is like cold storage for photos, documents, and videos you don’t need at your fingertips but want to retrieve easily. Store and share:

  • PDF copies of appliance manuals, which you can often download from manufacturer websites.
  • Filed tax paperwork and back-up documentation.
  • Household records, including warranties and receipts that document repairs.
  • All of your smartphone photos. You can set Dropbox to automatically back up your images. It’s a great way to save home improvement ideas and products you find while on the go.
  • All the screenshots you take while surfing the web on your computer. You can set Dropbox to automatically back up these image files. This is great way to store and share remodeling ideas and repair tips found online.

Evernote. Great for boosting your organization factor. Create folders (Evernote calls them notebooks) with detailed project information. Store and share:

  • Home improvement ideas. Share notes with text, photos, recorded audio, and attachments
  • Project expenses. Take photos of receipts and save them as searchable PDFs. Evernote scans the information so you can easily find them using merchant name, dollar amount, or date. You can even add your own tags for search purposes.

Google Drive. Great for basic organization and scheduling, it also allows users to collaborate on documents in real time. Create and share:

  • Remodeling and repair budget spreadsheets with family members and contractors.
  • Home maintenance schedules to stay on top of seasonal upkeep.
  • A digital home emergency kit, which can include maps downloaded from Google, personal documents like IDs and birth certificates, and a list of areas where family members can meet.

What About Data Security?

Dropbox, Evernote, and Google Drive each use encryption standards to keep data stored on their servers safe from prying eyes. To learn more, check each site’s privacy policy and terms of use.

Each company also offers two-step account verification — usually including a special code sent to your phone — to keep bad guys out of your account. It’s not setup automatically; you have to enable it. To learn more visit:

  • Google Drive
  • Dropbox
  • Evernote

Go a step further with data protection by taking advantage of the built-in hardware encryption that comes with smartphones. It turns stored data into unreadable gobbledygook that can only be unscrambled with a password. Visit your phone provider’s website for instructions.

 

 

By: Deirdre Sullivan:© Copyright 2015 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

 

Guide to Hardwood Floor Finishes

Guide to Hardwood Floor Finishes

by | Feb 12, 2015 | Homeownership, renovations

We’re not going out on a limb when we say hardwood floors are one of the most popular, value-adding features in your home. Homebuyers love ‘em.

But hardwood floors need regular maintenance and refinishing to keep them looking spiffy.

How much wear and tear your floors get determines how often you need to refinish them and what product you use. A household with just two adults might only have to refinish every 10 years; a home with adults, kids, and a dog might need to refinish every three to four years.

There are a lot of finishes out there. Use our at-a-glance guide below to choose the one that’s right for your home. We also help you decide if you want to refinish floors yourself.

Wax

Pros Cons
Easy to apply Not as durable as poly finishes
Low luster Susceptible to stains
Penetrates into wood Needs regular upkeep (refinishing)
Mild odor Must be completely removed before applying a polyurethane finish

Wax is the time-tested, old-fashioned way to refinish wood floors and was routinely used before polyurethanes became available in the 1970s. Both paste and liquid versions are making a comeback with homeowners who want a mellow, low-sheen look, and with those who prefer to use natural products with low VOCs and toxicity.

It’s applied by hand working small areas at a time, which makes it DIY-friendly (but labor-intensive). It’s also easy to touch up a wax finish, so ongoing maintenance is simple.

If you don’t want to darken your wood (which wax tends to do), first apply a base coat of shellac or sanding sealer that penetrates and seals the wood. Two to three coats of wax are recommended.

Especially good for: antique flooring in historic homes

Cost: $10 to $25 per 1 pound covers 400 to 500 square feet

Water-Based Polyurethane

Pros Cons
Fast drying time (2 to 4 hours between coats) More expensive than oil poly
Low odor; low VOCs Less tough than oil poly
Doesn’t yellow like oil polys
Easy to apply; good for DIYers

Polyurethanes are today’s standard floor finish. Water-based varieties used to have a reputation for being eco-friendly (still true) but not as durable as regular polys. However, today’s water-based polys are nearly as tough as their oil-based cousins.

One difference is final color: Water-based polys dry clear; oil-based polys have a slight amber tint.

Water-based polyurethane has very low VOC content and is easy for a DIYer to apply. Three to four coats are recommended. You can use a water-based polyurethane over an oil-based poly as long as the old finish has completely cured (two to three weeks).

Especially good for: eco-conscious DIYers

Cost: $40 to $60 per gallon covers 400 to 500 square feet

Oil-Based Polyurethane

Pros Cons
Less expensive than water-based poly Long drying time (8 to 10 hours between coats)
Extremely tough High odor during application; high VOCs
Easy to apply Gets yellow with age (benefit to some)

Oil-based polys are the mainstay of floor finishing and widely used by professional finishers.

Although they’re tough, long-lasting, and less-expensive than water-based polys, oil-based polys have a higher VOC content and stronger odor during application. A coat takes 8 to 10 hours to dry, so you’ll want to vacate your house until the floor is completely dry — and bring your pets with you. Two to three coats are recommended.

Professional floor refinishers report some problems when using an oil-based poly over a water-based poly. Best advice: Don’t do it.

Especially good for: professionally finished floors at a reasonable price

Cost: $30 to $40 per gallon covers 500 to 600 square feet; it’s $1 to $2 per square foot to have a pro do it.

Acid-Cured (Swedish) Finish

Pros Cons
Extremely hard and durable Difficult to refinish (must use acid-cured finish if used previously)
Fast drying time (2 hours) but up to 60 days to fully cure Volatile odors; high VOCs
More expensive than most finishes Pro-only application

The Cadillac (or Volvo) of floor finishes, acid-cured Swedish finishes are for pro application only. They’re among the toughest of all hardwood flooring finishes, and the most expensive. They’re sometimes called conversion varnish sealers.

Acid-cured finishes have extremely high VOC content; you’ll have to bunk elsewhere for a few days after finishing to give the odors a chance to clear. The finish takes up to 60 days to fully cure, but you can walk on it after three days. Keep furniture off for two weeks, and rugs off for the full 60 days so the fibers don’t stick.

Especially good for: high-end homes with flooring made from exotic woods and floors with elaborate inlay designs

Cost: $3.75 to $5 per square foot professionally applied

Moisture-Cured Urethane

Pros Cons
Extremely durable (one of the hardest) Extremely high VOCs (fumes may last for weeks)
Expensive Pro-only application
Fast drying time allows for multiple coats per day Low humidity extends drying time

This is a durable finish that’s a step up in toughness and longevity from water- and oil-based polyurethane. It’s tricky to apply and isn’t recommended for DIY — it dries very fast, so speed and a deft touch are needed to avoid lap marks.

It has a high VOC content, making a respirator and good ventilation a must during application. Homeowners and pets should vacate the house during application and for up to two weeks afterward.

Especially good for: high-traffic areas and homes with multiple kids and dogs

Cost: $2 to $4 per square foot professionally applied

Penetrating Oil Sealer

Pros Cons
Easy for DIYers to apply Not as durable as a poly finish
Non-toxic ingredients Should be reapplied every 2 to 3 years
Mild odor
Mellow sheen

Oil sealers have been used for centuries to protect and moisture-proof wood. They’re easy to apply, and spot touch-ups are a snap. Because it penetrates the wood, an oil sealer enhances grain patterns and deepens the color of the wood. The finish itself doesn’t scratch, but recoating usually is needed every two to three years as the finish wears down.

The basic ingredient is tung oil, a naturally occurring, low-VOC oil that hardens as it dries. It needs long drying times between coats (24 to 48 hours), so finishing a floor with the recommended three coats can take several days.

Especially good for: historic homes with antique flooring; DIYers

Cost: $60 to $70 per gallon covers 500 square feet

Aluminum Oxide

Pros Cons
Extermely hard and durable (25 years) Only available with prefinished flooring
Difficult to refinish
After 25 years, you might have to replace the flooring

This super-tough finish only comes on prefinished wood planks. You won’t apply it yourself, but you’ll need to know it’s there if you ever decide to refinish it. It requires special refinishing techniques, like sanding with milder grits before using heavier grits. Your floor refinisher can determine if your flooring is covered with an aluminum oxide coating.

Shellac

Pros Cons
Easy to work with Not very durable
Few harmful VOCs Most shellac contains wax — refinishing with modern products isn’t possible
Inexpensive Must be recoated periodically
Easy spot repairs

Polyurethane floor products have surpassed the usefulness of this time-honored wood finish. Houses built before 1970 may have hardwood floors finished with shellac, and you can maintain and refinish them with another coating of shellac. It’s not compatible with more modern finishes, such as polyurethane, so only refinish shellac with wax or another coating of shellac.

Test for shellac by dribbling a few drops of water on an inconspicuous spot. If the finish turns milky white, it’s shellac.

Shellac is a natural product that’s non-toxic and produces few VOCs. It’s not as tough and durable as polyurethanes, and is susceptible to stains from water and other spills. However, it’s easy to repair scratched areas by rubbing out the scratches with denatured alcohol, then reapplying shellac.

Shellac pairs well with wax. Use shellac as a base coat, and finish with two or three coats of hand-rubbed wax.

Especially good for: refinishing antique floors already coated with shellac

Cost: $80 to $90 per gallon covers 300 square feet

Two Options for Refinishing

Does your floor need a touch-up or an overhaul?

1.  For surface scratches and normal wear and tear, lightly sand the finish (called screening) and apply a new topcoat. You’ll want to use the same type of finish product that was on your flooring originally.

2.  For more damaged flooring, you’ll want to completely sand the old finish off down to the bare wood. Once you’ve done that, you can apply any finish.

Related: Ideas for Great-Looking, Low-Maintenance DIY Floors

 

By: John Riha:© Copyright 2015 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

 

Getting the Most Value Out of Your Outdoor Spaces

Getting the Most Value Out of Your Outdoor Spaces

by | Feb 12, 2015 | renovations

Published: June 6, 2014

Upgrading your outdoor spaces? Here are upgrades that landscape architects rate as most popular.

If you’re thinking of sprucing up your yard, install what you love; but also pick upgrades that will increase your home’s value and, someday, attract buyers.

The new “2014 Residential Landscape Architecture Trends Survey” by the American Society of Landscape Architects clues you in on what outdoor features are trending up:

1.  Outdoor lighting (98.3% of architects rated this as very popular): With today’s solar and LED lights, it’s a low-cost upgrade, too.

2.  Terraces, patios, and decks (97.7%): Adding any of these features is like adding another room to your home for much of the year.

3.  Low-maintenance landscaping (95.4%): Landscaping done right can add 28% to the value of your home and cut its time on the market by 10%-15%.

4.  Fire pits and fireplaces (95.4%): Building your own fire pit is an easy, low-cost DIY project.

5.  Built-in seating (89.6%): Adding built-ins to your deck or patio increases the usability of your outdoor spaces, which is like adding square footage to your home.

Other popular items include:

  • Fencing (88.5%)
  • Native plants (84.5%)
  • Drip-water efficient irrigation (84.5%)
  • Pergolas (82.8%)
  • Water features (81.6%)

Here are some less popular landscape items. So if you’re thinking of putting them in, make sure they’re something you’ll really enjoy:

  • Geothermal-heated pools (27.2%)
  • Outdoor cooling systems (37.2%)
  • Movie/TV theaters (42.3%)
  • Shower/baths (46.8%)
  • Gazebos (48.5%)
  • Turf lawns (54%)

Related:

  • Outdoor Lighting Tips
  • Inspiring Deck Ideas

 

 

By: Lisa Kaplan Gordon:© Copyright 2015 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

Best Money-Saving DIY Projects (and Tips for Doing Them Right)

Best Money-Saving DIY Projects (and Tips for Doing Them Right)

by | Feb 12, 2015 | Homeownership, renovations

When you factor in return on investment, you’d be nuts not to DIY.

You’re going to save money with DIY home improvement projects. Sure, everybody knows that.

But did you know how much? Cut professionals out of the equation and you can save half the cost of a project — or more. On a minor bathroom refresh, that could be up to $10,000.

What’s more, you get a great return on your investment. Meaning, the financial value you get out of a DIY project is much more than what you put in.

Of course there are projects where pro installation is going to be much faster and safer, and worth the price of a hiring a contractor. Major exterior improvements, such as replacing roofing and siding, are prime candidates.

And granted, there are tasks where a pro is invaluable. Personally, I have years of DIY experience, but I still won’t touch electrical work with a 10-foot insulated pole.

Nevertheless, going DIY is the ultimate money-saving tool. You’ll also get tons of satisfaction and enjoyment from creating a better home environment, and from learning home improvement skills that’ll last a lifetime.

Here’s a rundown of some top money-saving projects, using cost and return-on-investment figures from “Remodeling” magazine’s annual “Cost vs. Value Report.”

But before we get to that, let’s swat aside some concerns. Or go straight to the projects.

What If You Don’t Have the Skills?

Sorry, not buying it. How-to tutorials are everywhere. Check out YouTube for video instructions on everything from taking out a toilet to tiling your shower stall. In addition:

  • Most major manufacturers have tutorials on their websites. If you’re looking to install a particular product, check out the horse’s mouth for videos and PDF instructions.
  • Big box home improvement centers run clinics on installing tile, building decks, paint finishes, and more — free. Spend an hour or so at a clinic to learn direct from professionals.
  • Yes, physical books still exist. Buy new, or head down to your local library for free how-to books you can keep for weeks. (Yes, they still have overdue fines!)

What If You Don’t Have the Time?

That’s the trade-off. Your time (and labor) is going to stand in for cash out of your pocket. If you truly don’t have the time, then DIY probably isn’t for you.

The next best move is to BIY your project — buy-it-yourself. With a BIY project, you do the research, shopping, and purchasing of materials and save the contractor’s markup. You need to work closely with your professional to make sure you agree on what stuff you’ll be buying, and what is still the contractor’s responsibility.

Related: Save 20% When You BIY Instead of DIY

The Best Money-Saving Projects With Great ROI

Deck Addition

A 12-foot-by-16-foot wood deck addition is a straightforward project, especially if you keep the design simple (rectangular) and use concrete piers instead of poured concrete footings (check your local codes). Even a set of simple stairs can be tricky, so take your time with measurements. If you botch your first attempt, know you’re in good company, and try again.

If You Hire If You DIY
Cost $10,048 Cost $1,650
What You Get Back When You Sell* $8,085 What You Get Back When You Sell* $8,085
Return on Investment

80.5%

 Return on Investment

490%

*Source: “Remodeling” magazine “Cost vs. Value Report”

You can probably build a 12-foot-by-16-foot DIY deck in three to four days over two weekends. If you’re using poured footings instead of precast piers, you’ll need to wait two or three days for the concrete to cure. Having a buddy definitely helps move things along, but might cost you extra for pizza and beer.

Minor Bathroom Facelift

A typical guest bathroom is about 5 feet by 7 feet, so let’s bring that up-to-date by installing a new tub, toilet, ceramic tile floor and shower surround, updating the shower valve, and adding a new vanity, sink, and counter. Spruce it all up with moisture-proof vinyl wallpaper.

You’ll do everything but the plumbing connections, so add $380 for a pro plumber (four hours at $95 per hour).

Installing ceramic tile is one of the more challenging — and rewarding — DIY projects. Study those tutorials first, and get the right tools. Rent an electric tile saw for $50 to $75 per day; but note that you can buy an acceptable tile saw at a home improvement center for less than $100.

If You Hire If You DIY
Cost $16,724 Cost $6,880
What You Get Back When You Sell* $11,707 What You Get Back When You Sell* $11,707
Return on Investment

70%

 Return on Investment

170%

*Source: “Remodeling” magazine “Cost vs. Value Report”

Plan for six to eight days of work, spread over however long you can stand to be without your bathroom. You’ll need the better part of two days for the tile alone, and a day to let the tile adhesive set.

Entry Door Replacement

No other project gives as much return as a new steel entry replacement door. Not only is it a cost-effective project with one of the highest returns in the Cost vs. Value Report, but you get the added benefit of sprucing up your curb appeal.

Know your door parts (jambs, threshold, stops) before digging in. You’ll be putting in a pre-hung door that includes jambs, so the old stuff has to come out. If you can, preserve the old casing (trim) that goes around the door. Otherwise, plan to buy new casing.

If You Hire If You DIY
Cost $1,230 Cost $250
What You Get Back When You Sell* $1,252 What You Get Back When You Sell* $1,252
Return on Investment

101.8%

 Return on Investment

501%

*Source: “Remodeling” magazine “Cost vs. Value Report”

This is a good one to have a buddy or spouse lend a hand. It’ll take six to eight hours if it’s your first time. Remember the three-legged mantra of door installation: Plumb, level, square.

Related: Choosing an Exterior Door

Garage Door Replacement

Tired of looking at that big blank billboard every time you pull into your driveway? Change out your old garage door for a spiffy new steel model and the whole neighborhood will thank you. Save some cash by keeping the same motorized opener.

If You Hire If You DIY
Cost $1,595 Cost $850
What You Get Back When You Sell* $1,410 What You Get Back When You Sell* $1,410
Return on Investment

88.4%

 Return on Investment

166%

*Source: “Remodeling” magazine “Cost vs. Value Report”

A steel garage door comes in four panels that are relatively lightweight but awkward — get a friend to lend a hand and you’ll have this project done in a day.

Vinyl Window Replacement

If you want to replace four or more windows, or a second-story window, then hire the work out. Being up on a ladder with an object as bulky as a window is no place for a non-professional. Pros bring scaffolding, which takes time to set up but ultimately makes the work faster and safer.

Replacing one, two, or maybe three first-story windows is a good DIY job. Anything more and the pros will get the job done with better efficiency in terms of time and hassle.

If You Hire If You DIY
Cost (per window) $1,120 Cost (per window) $250
What You Get Back When You Sell* $816 What You Get Back When You Sell* $799
Return on Investment

72.9%

 Return on Investment

320%

*Source: “Remodeling” magazine “Cost vs. Value Report”

If you’ve measured your rough opening correctly and bought the right window, then one window should take you three to four hours. You’ll get faster with subsequent windows.

 

 

By: John Riha:© Copyright 2015 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

 

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